What makes you want to watch a surfer? One word: Style
Style defines you as a surfer - it’s that unique form of expression, your personal blueprint on a wave. Take a look at some of the world’s best: Slater, AI, Tom Curren – each and everyone was born with style, it is the essence of their surfing.
As for the rest of us – well let’s just say it’s not too late yet - style can be developed and improved on and should be the key aspect of your surfing. For some style is like spreading margarine on white bread, for others more like trying to spread frozen butter…
The longer you ignore it the worse it becomes and breaking the habit becomes impossible! But seriously what goes through your mind on a wave? How do you read it? What’s your plan of attack? Is it always the same safe combo? Sometimes the simplest little tweaks or change in your line can open up a whole new world, put you in a position on a wave where you’ve never been before and all of a sudden everything looks different.
You just have to read between the lines. Although no two waves are the same and it all happens so fast sometimes you’ve got to slow it down in order to make it work. Adapt your style to suit the conditions i.e in smaller surf have a closer centre of gravity further up the board to maintain momentum, yet be able to use your close stance to pivot the board on your moves.
Whereas in the bigger stuff your stance is a bit wider, more stable, to hold longer more powerful lines. What it comes down to is your body’s position on the board in relation to the wave. Think of letting the wave ride you first, before you decide what’s going to happen, feel its energy and go with its flow. Do what the wave allows you to do, make your surfing fit, so what if it’s only one big turn!
Some insight from the King
Slater was asked at the Pipe Masters one year what he thought of while he was on a wave. One of the things he said was “giving the crowd what they want to see”. Now we’re not all as good as the King but you catch my drift right? Free your body, free your mind, your options are endless, breakdown those boundaries - they only exist in your head.
It’s a little like the Matrix - that whole “the body cannot live without the mind” which we all thought was bullshit. Be aware of what’s happening around you. If you’re going out to bust phat flips, then set yourself up for it, analyze, adjust and find out what the best way to do it is.
This could go on forever but I know it has gotten you thinking about your next surf. So before you paddle out the next time, remember: style is what your surfing is. If you’ve got the moves but don’t have the style then you may have won the battle, but you’ve lost the war.
By Justin Stevens
