Sometimes I feel like I’m judging a surf comp, well actually every time I’m on the beach I’m sitting analyzing the ways guys are using their bodies, the wave angles and the direction in which they going. It often tends to get very technical and critical.
It’s something that I do to hopefully improve my surfing and open my mind to new lines, different moves and more effective use of the wave. Have you ever kicked out and thought “damn, that could’ve gone better”.
So for the next few lines we’ll be taking a look at a few of the forgotten basics of surfing that will raise the level of competition next time you’re out there.
Let’s call them small changes, just basic increments…
Stance comes in at number one as the blueprint for your wave riding ability! Falling into the rut of being a “glue foot” is a mistake often made by many. The slightest shift in stance can loosen up your surfing in big ways! Sliding your feet up and down the board to maintain momentum is always necessary in any type of surf. Further up the board means you carry more speed, where as further down, getting your back foot right on the tail means more drive!
A lower centre of gravity means more stability and balance especially when setting up for big moves like airs or 360’s! The flipside of this is the lower you get the more room you have to extend and spring your body up when peaking your moves getting the maximum out of every turn!
Its common knowledge in every sport that where your head goes, your body will follow. So look in the direction you want to go, visualize the move before it happens. Keep your head up and look farther down the line then just the section in front of you. Also remember to keep your eyes open when you’re in the barrel.
Many really good surfers try and race around sections when the best thing to do is hit them! Maintaining speed is the key and one way to get more of it is to try and re-enter the wave from the top as often as possible, coming down hard, and getting onto the rail again.
When you look at the most complete surfers they're always surfing off their rails. Smoother, faster transitions between moves come from using your rail - this is where the outline of your board comes to life cutting into the face! Rail to rail surfing is generally faster and more connected.
Ever think “how the hell did he just whip that around?” Your centre of gravity is in your hips, the more they swing the more power and drive you’ll get – this isn’t only true when surfing! Use your hips as a pivot for all your moves, the harder they turn, the harder you turn!
Watch “Search for Tom Curren” to fully appreciate this one! Bottom turning deep, taking the high line and then coming down hard back into the pocket is the trick to surfing small waves. They actually have a lot of power; you just need to know where to find it!
Weighting and under-weighting is one of the old tricks to get the crowd going, by applying pressure to the back or front foot and at the same time releasing pressure of the opposite foot get you spinning like a washing machine.
These are but a few points of many hours of conversation that happen on a day to day basis. Next time you’re out there give them a go and feel the magic to happen!!!
We could all do with a little bit more style this summer - peace out guys!
By Justin Stevens
