Charging - for some it comes easier than others, but for the rest of us it just seems all too crazy. Personally my feelings on big waves are undecided. Why, maybe because I haven’t stared down those demons just yet. Maybe I don’t have balls big enough to weigh in, maybe its just not me, but still there’s that hunger that drives me to a place I’ve never been… over the edge.

As much as you prepare yourself mentally and physically it doesn’t help being clueless out there: you’re going to get your ass handed to you. So because your life depends on it we questioned a few names infamous with the big wave scene to find out how to live the longest the next time you decide to drop over that ledge.

Mantra 01) Be mentally prepared

Big wave riding is more than just a physical challenge, I’d say it’s more a mental battle. Forcing yourself to turn around and paddle into that monster takes some mental conditioning – when your mind tells you that what you’re doing is insane you need to tell it to “Shut the hell up” and just do it.

Realise that you’re not going to make every wave and be prepared to deal with the consequences, be it physically by following our tips or mentally by running through some scenarios beforehand so you’re ready to deal with the situation when it presents itself.

Mantra 02) Rather be over gunned than under gunned

Paddling into that mountain of water early is crucial. There’s so much water moving out there and lets face it big waves aren’t for air reverses. Getting in comfortably, bottom turning and finding your line is pretty much the basis of charging bigger waves.

Forget those fantasies of hitting the lip on your 7’0”. Just catching the wave and feeling the speed and power of an 8ft Factory outsider is where it’s at. You’re stoked to have survived the experience!

When you’ve decided you’re ready to catch a few paddle into the wave with commitment – I know guy’s it’s a word we’re meant to fear but in this case it will save your life.

If you’re not feeling committed don’t go for the wave – you’ll be surprised how easily that beast can pick you up, drag you over and spit you out if you try and pull out at the last minute.

Mantra 03) Familiarize yourself with the break

Obviously watch and familiarize yourself with the break before you go out. Time the sets, see how many waves are in the set, check if there are wide ones pulling through because if you are winging it now’s the time to reconsider what life means to you!

Paddle out with someone who knows the break and has some experience there. You‘ll be much safer and more confident than if you were alone. Ask for help and advice if you’re not sure, the life you save may just be your own.

Once you’ve paddled out sit on the shoulder and let it all sink in. More often than not the 12ft you saw from the car park, will be looking a whole lot bigger right now, so don’t rush it.

Mantra 04) Wave size = leash length

If the surfs 10ft you want to have a 10ft leash. This allows you that second to break surface before you enter the city of Atlantis and meet the beautiful mermaids. Also a comp leash just ain’t gonna cut it unless you’ve got a death wish.

The first few times I observed guys riding a 9ft gun I couldn’t understand why they swam a few strokes before getting onto their board. It was only when I used my 10ft leash the first time that I got it – SLACK – that is extra leash length.

When riding a short board I got into the habit of tensioning the leash with my leg to drag the board closer but when you’ve got an extra 4 feet of leash it takes a few strokes to tension up the slack, be prepared for this!

Also on the note of leash selection, try and get one that has a quick release mechanism built in and practice “pulling the tab” – I’d recommend doing this by holding your breath while twisted up in a hammock that’s unwinding – kinda like that KFC Pops ad – it’s the closest thing I can think of to being pulled around while underwater, once I experienced three full revolutions. [Marzo]

Mantra 05) “O” is for Ocean Diving

Duck diving is for small surf. In the big stuff you want to be ocean diving, its called ocean diving because it’s so deep you literally are diving into the ocean. The tricky part here is that most guys would try and swim through the wave, that’s like hand walking up a hill, you’re not gonna make it so don’t even try. Instead swim straight down to the bottom or as far as possible, again the longer your leash the better coz you’ll be swimming deeper.

Before you ditch your board, make sure that there’s nobody close to you, the last thing you want is to take the guy out behind you.

Ian Armstrong once told me that if the wave is 15ft then the turbulence below the surface as it breaks would be more or less 15ft. So to make the dive you’d have to clear that turbulence and get shot out the back of it once it passes over you.

There are also a surprising amount of air pockets which just pop you right back up again but unless you’re a gambling man and the odds aren’t stacked against you we suggest you play it safe.

Mantra 06) Pick the right set wave

If there are 5 waves in the set don’t just turn and give it horns on the first one that comes your way, coz if you wipe, you’ll have the next 4 waves to drop kick your ass back to the beach. Instead go for the last wave, if you don’t make that, at least you’ve only got 1 wipe to deal with… make sense? And if you lucky enough you can get into the channel and have an easy paddle back out to the lineup.

Lastly, time how long the wave takes from the time it starts breaking till when it fades or hits the beach, its usually only a few seconds which means you won’t be held down for too long, but be warned a few seconds could feel like a lifetime especially when you pop up to discover that you’ve been dragged 50 meters down the line.

Well that’s it in a nutshell, please play it safe and always keep your eyes on each “family member” out there. Water safety is everyone’s responsibility.

By Justin Stevens, additions by Marschant