I seem to be using the word PASSIONATE more and more these days. Every time I start to write about something or someone it’s the first thing I want to write.
Before long I’ll be writing books for Mills and Boon. Can you imagine? “He stared longingly into her deep blue eyes and she felt his passion burning as he kissed her.” Or not.
The point I’m trying to make is this. Surfers are generally very passionate people. We don’t just exist, WE LIVE. Sometimes life throws us a curveball or three and things go wrong.
For me surfing has been around through all of this and I’ve been blessed so much that through all my hard times I’ve always managed to end up at the beach for another surf. Not all of us are fortunate enough. Some of us never make it back to the ocean.
This month all I want to say is this: Share your passion with everyone around you. If you haven’t seen a friend in a while, make the effort to find out if they’re still surfing. Keep in touch and share the stoke.
Our love for the ocean makes us all family and family stick together.
By Darryl Brandreth
you are perfectly right abut it. wa have to share our passion with everyone arund us.
i'm writing a book about surf culture, soul and education. the aim of the book is to give few ideas about surfing as a way of life, and a practical way to teach kids and teens about life through surfing.
my dream is to finish it and give it for free to surfers, parents and schools, then get an equiped bus and travel along the moroccan coast sharing my passion for surf culture.
i have a bad english, but i hope that you have understood me.