It’s that time of year again: Polar Ice conditions and always pissing with rain. Electricity cuts don't make it any easier, even the thought of hot drink before that early morning dawn patrol aren’t enough to get you out of bed.
Just what does it take to go for a surf, all of a sudden it feels like an effort, no California dreaming for me, all I see is mist, and I ask myself “What am I doing here...?”
Saturday night and I chose the “stay in” option. This was the right thing to do, got me some goodies from the local Kwik Spar – coca-cola, chocolates and E-TV's Cheaters enough entertainment for the evening.
Every time an AX commercial comes on I realise just how much I need a girlfriend... surfing is the last thing on my mind... ag well, the stupid cheater got busted and I know his wife is gonna be doing the retaliatory bump and grind with the sleazy presenter, time for a new plan Stan…
At 9:30pm I get the message: 200 chicks outside Tiger Tiger and all of a sudden I was like the Energiser Bunny running around looking for shiny shoes, thinking cleavage and G-strings on all those foreign chicks… surfing was still just a flash in the back of my mind or was it that jewelry on imaginary chick 69’s G-string, all I know is I got to go…
I paused for a moment - just received another message, most probably Justin letting me know there’s now 250 chicks outside the popular night spot. In my race to get done I grabbed my phone to check the message: true to form it was 745 inviting me for an early morning surf. I happened to see the waves earlier and it didn't look as if it was gonna turn on.
745’s always amped to surf, even when there’s no surf. 745 's there like the Godfather. Well this was the point of no return for me, 745 just has this way, you know the way you can't turn down or deny - she’s always stoked.
As I sat there on my bed dressed to impress with my shiny shoes and shirt WITH buttons smelling like D&G, I immediately replied to 745's SMS… CU there! The night out turned out to be a night in after all, dunno if I was doing the right thing, that jewelery was pretty shiny man!
I meet up with 745 @ 7:45am… my suit is still wet from three days ago, I feel like I have frost bite, my bare feet burn in the car park, it’s kak cold… Mugg & Bean is calling me ekse – but we paddle out, just the two of us, through icy, crispy and almost totally mistified conditions – and that’s no pun.
Paddling through the mist, duck-diving perfect 2-3ft crispy waves was euphoric; the waves were there, almost like they knew 745 would be on it. Seeing the Sunrise Orange Mountains and Blue skies was great, almost romantic (with the ocean not 745 although the thought had crossed my mind). As we caught a few waves things just got better and better - the day went from icy cold, dull and grey to soft serves and families enjoying the Sun and Surf.
It’s like this – sometimes we need to feed off the commitment of others. It’s easier to brave those cold days when you surround yourself with people who are committed, after all, it’s what keeps us going. As a Lover of the sea it’s your obligation, your responsibility to be there when it’s on.
The waves that Mother Ocean sends us are for our enjoyment and pleasure… like gifts, we've just got to show some Dedication. Dedication to the cause no matter what other options or attractions there maybe, everything else just seems mundane.
745's probably on it right now, racing down the line, setting up to hit the lip… so tell me brother, where on earth are you?
STAY COMMITTED
By Clint Stevens




